Scoot on over to Oprah.com and take the "Happiness Test".
Also they have the "10 Proven Ways to Increase your Happiness".
Tomorrow, another way to create a croqui and a wardrobe plan.
Monday, May 31, 2010
Saturday, May 29, 2010
Dressing the croqui
Just a little about the lines you draw in on the croqui, you can use these to "plot" a new style, or just to keep symmetry on designs you draw.
1) start with the v at the neck and draw the base of your neck
(imagine a column)
(it should look a little like a crew neck)
2) Then find your shoulder bones and draw down following your side seams
(you can always give it a little shape later).
3) Between the shoulder joint and your neck - mark a halfway point.
4) Find your waist and draw it in starting with your belly button to the indentation at the side seams. Alternatively, just start with the center and go straight out to the side seams.
5) Then mark your crotch, knees, ankles.
6) Then draw in where your legs bend at the hips (this could be the bottom edge of a pantie line depending on what style you wear).
7) Then mark center front - from the v, to the crotch, intersecting the belly button.
8) Then quarter the body - shoulder midpoint, waist midpoint, hip joint midpoint.
After doing this exercise, I found a few things out about my own body, like different shoulder lines. One straight and the other that curves downward. This would explain why I always find myself making shoulder adjustments. You may find high hip, tilted waist... we're all a little uneven:)
Do a last check to make sure that your lines are as symmetrical as possible. Since this is all done in pencil you can still play with the lines until you're happy with it.
I found two outfits in an old Anthropologie catalog that I think would like nice on my Croqui's body type.
Now whenever you want to dress the croqui, you have reference lines to refer to. Look at the style on the model and where these points fall on her body and transfer them to your croqui.
So I found two styles for "Kate the croqui" and dressed her.
Here we've marked the major points and outlined
Then I found this style, which I also thought might be fun.
1) start with the v at the neck and draw the base of your neck
(imagine a column)
(it should look a little like a crew neck)
2) Then find your shoulder bones and draw down following your side seams
(you can always give it a little shape later).
3) Between the shoulder joint and your neck - mark a halfway point.
4) Find your waist and draw it in starting with your belly button to the indentation at the side seams. Alternatively, just start with the center and go straight out to the side seams.
5) Then mark your crotch, knees, ankles.
6) Then draw in where your legs bend at the hips (this could be the bottom edge of a pantie line depending on what style you wear).
7) Then mark center front - from the v, to the crotch, intersecting the belly button.
8) Then quarter the body - shoulder midpoint, waist midpoint, hip joint midpoint.
After doing this exercise, I found a few things out about my own body, like different shoulder lines. One straight and the other that curves downward. This would explain why I always find myself making shoulder adjustments. You may find high hip, tilted waist... we're all a little uneven:)
Do a last check to make sure that your lines are as symmetrical as possible. Since this is all done in pencil you can still play with the lines until you're happy with it.
I found two outfits in an old Anthropologie catalog that I think would like nice on my Croqui's body type.
Now whenever you want to dress the croqui, you have reference lines to refer to. Look at the style on the model and where these points fall on her body and transfer them to your croqui.
So I found two styles for "Kate the croqui" and dressed her.
Here we've marked the major points and outlined
Then I found this style, which I also thought might be fun.
Making your croqui
To make your croqui, you need a digital camera, your computer, a pencil, tracing paper and patience. Dress yourself in clothing that will show you all of the lines of your body, you could do this in underwear (which is probably better), shapewear or a yoga outfit. Preferably something that will show the reference lines that you will need in the future (like waistline, neckline, etc). Set up your camera or have someone take a photo of your full body. Try to get them to fill as much of the frame with your body leaving a little on the top and bottom so that you don't cut your head or limbs off. Also, since you are doing all this prep, make sure to take the back as well as the front, and take a few in different poses, so at least one with the arms down at the sides and another with one hand at the hip, and maybe another with the both hands on the hip (these will come in handy if you try to draw a butterfly sleeve or dolman). And if you want to see what you would look like in heels, by all means take a few of those as well. So here's your homework..
Photos - in underwear, shapewear, bikini:)
Hands by your sides Front, side, back
One hand on hip Front, back
Both hands on hip Front, back
*** Try the same shots with heels, especially if you are planning a formal or dressy outfit, something you would normally wear heels with.
As an example we have Kate Moss. She's skinny isn't she? Perfect right? I'm using her as an example because we are sometimes blinded by our own imperfections. I tried to find an example in the fashion magazines that was in underwear, and was a full body shot, but I think this will work as a sample.
Upload those photos to your computer. Open up the first image, and don't panic, I have never liked being photographed. I had a few feelings of ugh, how many more sit ups will I have to do? How many cupcakes will I need to give up, this is just an exercise, and no one need ever see these, they are just for you.
Decide which stance you want to start with, take a piece of tracing paper and place it over your screen or print the image out in black and white. Do not use permanent marker or pen, use a pencil. Lightly outline your body completely, try to do this as carefully as possible capturing as much detail as you can. Be sure to mark all of those points which give you a guide to your future garments.
Outline body
- mark the base of the neck (where the little V is)
- waist (bellybutton)
- crotch
- knee
- ankle
- elbow
- wrist
- hands (you can just draw lines for the knuckles)
- shoulder
- high bust point
- head
If you are tracing from the screen take the paper off the screen and work on a table top and work on the lines a little more until you are happy with it.
Outlines automatically look larger because they don't show shadows and areas that recede. So don't throw it out because you don't like what you see. Even models don't have perfect bodies and what you are looking for is a realistic shape, so that you can play later. When you finally get something you like, take a thin line black marker and put in your final drawing. This will help with the next step.
This is just to illustrate that no one lives up to the fashion croqui which is more like this...
We will dress Kate's croqui in the next post.
Photos - in underwear, shapewear, bikini:)
Hands by your sides Front, side, back
One hand on hip Front, back
Both hands on hip Front, back
*** Try the same shots with heels, especially if you are planning a formal or dressy outfit, something you would normally wear heels with.
As an example we have Kate Moss. She's skinny isn't she? Perfect right? I'm using her as an example because we are sometimes blinded by our own imperfections. I tried to find an example in the fashion magazines that was in underwear, and was a full body shot, but I think this will work as a sample.
Upload those photos to your computer. Open up the first image, and don't panic, I have never liked being photographed. I had a few feelings of ugh, how many more sit ups will I have to do? How many cupcakes will I need to give up, this is just an exercise, and no one need ever see these, they are just for you.
Decide which stance you want to start with, take a piece of tracing paper and place it over your screen or print the image out in black and white. Do not use permanent marker or pen, use a pencil. Lightly outline your body completely, try to do this as carefully as possible capturing as much detail as you can. Be sure to mark all of those points which give you a guide to your future garments.
Outline body
- mark the base of the neck (where the little V is)
- waist (bellybutton)
- crotch
- knee
- ankle
- elbow
- wrist
- hands (you can just draw lines for the knuckles)
- shoulder
- high bust point
- head
If you are tracing from the screen take the paper off the screen and work on a table top and work on the lines a little more until you are happy with it.
Outlines automatically look larger because they don't show shadows and areas that recede. So don't throw it out because you don't like what you see. Even models don't have perfect bodies and what you are looking for is a realistic shape, so that you can play later. When you finally get something you like, take a thin line black marker and put in your final drawing. This will help with the next step.
This is just to illustrate that no one lives up to the fashion croqui which is more like this...
We will dress Kate's croqui in the next post.
Flamer dictionary online
Have you ever been on a board and participated on a thread that was good spirited and informative to have it turn? Apparently there's a dictionary of terms for those people who belong to forums and intentionally take topics off track. When I first hear the term troll, I couldn't help but think of the little plastic trolls with the psychodelic tuffs of hair, and bulging eyes, but this takes it to another level.
Flamers
Flamers
Working with the Croqui
Planning a wardrobe is never easy, even if you're buying it. It involves really taking a look at how you live, what fabrics you like (what fabrics you can obtain), how they all combine for a workable solution.
This is the most cost effective sort of play, a little pen and paper and some time.
No muslins or patterns, just a look at what is practical, comfortable, and flattering. Most of what is here is based on items that have been in my wardrobe in the past. The "safari/military" jacket is based on one that I still have but is falling apart and needs to be replaced. V neck t-shirts are a good way to go for me, I have a few in my wardrobe that also need replacing. Jeans I need desperately, and shirts I find comfortable. What I really need is a replacement for the running shorts I wear day in and out. Maybe leggings? We shall see.
This is the most cost effective sort of play, a little pen and paper and some time.
No muslins or patterns, just a look at what is practical, comfortable, and flattering. Most of what is here is based on items that have been in my wardrobe in the past. The "safari/military" jacket is based on one that I still have but is falling apart and needs to be replaced. V neck t-shirts are a good way to go for me, I have a few in my wardrobe that also need replacing. Jeans I need desperately, and shirts I find comfortable. What I really need is a replacement for the running shorts I wear day in and out. Maybe leggings? We shall see.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Taming the waist
From Claire Shaeffer, "Couture sewing technique", an explanation of how to use stays (click here).
Over at Anna's Sewing blog, she shows what a finished waist stay looks like sewn in, you'll need to scroll down a bit to see it (click here). You can use this technique in anything with a waist seam.
The simple waist stay will not correct all flaws, but will give you just a tiny bit more of an indentation, marking the waist and keeping the waist in place. It's also a good idea to use this in wrap dresses, to keep the stitching from popping at the waist, with all the wrapping and unwrapping involved. Since it's inside the garment, it's invisible, like a little hidden shapewear.
Which brings me to "What Not To Wear" Stacey London and Clinton Kelly have a series of style tips on their website (complete with 30 second commercials)(click here).
Over at Anna's Sewing blog, she shows what a finished waist stay looks like sewn in, you'll need to scroll down a bit to see it (click here). You can use this technique in anything with a waist seam.
The simple waist stay will not correct all flaws, but will give you just a tiny bit more of an indentation, marking the waist and keeping the waist in place. It's also a good idea to use this in wrap dresses, to keep the stitching from popping at the waist, with all the wrapping and unwrapping involved. Since it's inside the garment, it's invisible, like a little hidden shapewear.
Which brings me to "What Not To Wear" Stacey London and Clinton Kelly have a series of style tips on their website (complete with 30 second commercials)(click here).
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Waist not want not...
I always thought that fitted was better than belted, apparently not. I remember my mother always made a belt with each dress she made. I also remember that when she would measure my waist, she would pull it a little tighter than normal, and (I'm convinced) would even sew it smaller than she measured. I think the other detail here is that it is a dark belt, not a white belt.
Another way I've seen this "cinching" effect is when the garment has a buckram or grosgrain ribbon waist stay. In addition to keeping the garment in place, it also serves to relieve some of the stress from the waist seam, keeping the stitching from popping, this is mostly in couture garments, and in some vintage dresses.
Another way I've seen this "cinching" effect is when the garment has a buckram or grosgrain ribbon waist stay. In addition to keeping the garment in place, it also serves to relieve some of the stress from the waist seam, keeping the stitching from popping, this is mostly in couture garments, and in some vintage dresses.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
Maybe I need touch up?
I think my croqui might have been a little misleading, so I'll go back to working on it with a finer pointed pencil. Maybe I can shave some off my waist, like they did on this website. Here on iWANEX, click on portfolio, at the bottom they have thumbnails of famous beautiful people. Click on one, then run your mouse outside of the frame for the before and after touch ups. You can continue to run your mouse inside and out to see what changes they've made. Hmmm maybe I don't feel so bad now.
Before
After
They whittled her waist a bit more, balanced out the left breast, gave her more hip, less rib cage, narrowed the straps on her dress and even tamed a wild lock of hair.
Before
After
They whittled her waist a bit more, balanced out the left breast, gave her more hip, less rib cage, narrowed the straps on her dress and even tamed a wild lock of hair.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
What looks better?
My sister in law, says I look great, she used to say this even in my heavier days. I told her that my secret was shapewear and heels. This brings me to my present shape, which has evolved over the years. In my latest weight loss, with exercise I have managed to lose 3" from my waist, 1" from my hips, and nothing from my chest. In the past, my bust would be the first place to go, so with what holding weight around the heart implies for cardiac health, I'm a bit concerned. I'm sure that with continued effort, I'll even out eventually... but I digress.
With sewing, awareness of your body and shape is inevitable, besides the stylist's advice there are other tools available to us to maximize our potential silhouette.
There is the Golden Rule invented by the Greeks, used by artists and architects alike. We all know when we've happened upon a garment that makes us look great, but we can't put our finger on why. It's worth investigating, because when we look great we feel great.
Ruth & Sarah Levy wrote "The Fashion Code" you can see some before & after photos here. It's important to note they didn't invent this way of looking at clothing, it's been around awhile and has been incorporated in a number of other books, like the Palmer Pletsch method. I'll try and do a mini review of "The Fashion Code" if my library has it, sometime in the future.
My argument with my SIL was that heels giving me a little more height, give me a longer silhouette. But you have to look at proportion. Heels have to be in proportion with the garment.
Without heels
With heels
Which looks best?
With sewing, awareness of your body and shape is inevitable, besides the stylist's advice there are other tools available to us to maximize our potential silhouette.
There is the Golden Rule invented by the Greeks, used by artists and architects alike. We all know when we've happened upon a garment that makes us look great, but we can't put our finger on why. It's worth investigating, because when we look great we feel great.
Ruth & Sarah Levy wrote "The Fashion Code" you can see some before & after photos here. It's important to note they didn't invent this way of looking at clothing, it's been around awhile and has been incorporated in a number of other books, like the Palmer Pletsch method. I'll try and do a mini review of "The Fashion Code" if my library has it, sometime in the future.
My argument with my SIL was that heels giving me a little more height, give me a longer silhouette. But you have to look at proportion. Heels have to be in proportion with the garment.
Without heels
With heels
Which looks best?
Monday, May 24, 2010
My Croqui
So i decided to work on a croqui so that I can get a handle of what I should wear and maybe even design it in the flat before cutting out another garment and hoping it looks good but this is what it looked like when I was done.
Tee hee!! Alright maybe not that bad, but i'm carrying more weight in my torso than I ever thought. So this was a good exercise.
Placing some tracing paper over my computer screen and an image of me in my yoga pants and a t-shirt this was my shape. Really not that far off from the Venus of Willendorf.
I think this was a bit of a surprise but not really, most of how I look at myself is in my bathroom mirrors which are from hip to head, not really taking in the full picture. I have a full length mirror but rarely use it because it has a chair in front of it. Time to free up the full length mirror.
Tee hee!! Alright maybe not that bad, but i'm carrying more weight in my torso than I ever thought. So this was a good exercise.
Placing some tracing paper over my computer screen and an image of me in my yoga pants and a t-shirt this was my shape. Really not that far off from the Venus of Willendorf.
I think this was a bit of a surprise but not really, most of how I look at myself is in my bathroom mirrors which are from hip to head, not really taking in the full picture. I have a full length mirror but rarely use it because it has a chair in front of it. Time to free up the full length mirror.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
When you can only afford 1 great button
Use it in a prominent place.
This is from Roberto Cavalli, it reminds me of the dress that Uli Herzner made in Project Runway (Season 3).
This is from Roberto Cavalli, it reminds me of the dress that Uli Herzner made in Project Runway (Season 3).
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Anglomania, I'm in Love
How is this for beautiful? I've been searching my image files, because I could have sworn I posted this somewhere, so forgive me if I'm repeating myself. I love the lines of this jacket, and it's symmetrical, I like what Vivienne Westwood creates but there's always a lot of volume, and asymmetry that I don't see it working for me. I like that this is simple, fitted, and not lacking in flattering details. I'm pretty sure this would work for me. The portrait collar, the back shaped hemline. What is not to like?
And you could wear this under it, yet another VW design, I'm really warming up to these styles. This looks a little like what we do when we get a few yards of jersey home. You start draping it around your body free style, I know you do.
And you could wear this under it, yet another VW design, I'm really warming up to these styles. This looks a little like what we do when we get a few yards of jersey home. You start draping it around your body free style, I know you do.
Friday, May 21, 2010
Uncle, no more
Tired of the pepto bismol vintage dress? Yeah me too! Ok just one more shot.
I decided to loosen the bottom gathers, so in this pic, it is snug at my smallest measurement, and a little looser around the waist. I've also folded back the neckline. Honestly, the camera has turned out to be a great tool but my biggest silent critic. After losing some weight I had no idea I still looked as big as I do. (maybe better lighting:)? I think the next step will be creating a croqui to establish the most flattering skirt/pant lengths, sleeve length and necklines. Maybe that will help me camoflauge some things.
Have a great weekend everyone!
I decided to loosen the bottom gathers, so in this pic, it is snug at my smallest measurement, and a little looser around the waist. I've also folded back the neckline. Honestly, the camera has turned out to be a great tool but my biggest silent critic. After losing some weight I had no idea I still looked as big as I do. (maybe better lighting:)? I think the next step will be creating a croqui to establish the most flattering skirt/pant lengths, sleeve length and necklines. Maybe that will help me camoflauge some things.
Have a great weekend everyone!
Monday, May 17, 2010
Jennifer Lopez - Pear
I was shopping yesterday and saw Jennifer Lopez on the cover of Redbook, and I thought "Pear". I think this dress is fabulous and would look awful on me, but if anyone out there is thinking I hate my pear shape, (as we do) look to her for how she makes it look fabulous.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Body type shopping at Anthropologie
Using the rules in my previous post, I went to Anthropologie to "shop". I find I like the neckline embellishments (that are clearly not good for me).
Good for
Pear shapes
Hourglass
Apple
Surplice top with ruching!
Meeting place tank I really like this one, but I find the green flower detail distracting. It is really cute on a body, you can visit it with the link above.
Good for
Pear shapes
Hourglass
Apple
Surplice top with ruching!
Meeting place tank I really like this one, but I find the green flower detail distracting. It is really cute on a body, you can visit it with the link above.
Breaking down your shape
I haven't plotted the neckline for this dress yet, I want to make sure to do what I can to place it in the most flattering way for my shape. So I did a little research, from "The Pocket Stylist" by Kendall Farr.
I like that she starts out with, what we all should be considering when embarking on a new sewing project. Silhouette, proportion, fabric, and what she calls Optical Illusion vs delusion...
So I'll just jump right into body types
A - Width of shoulders and waist is smaller than the width of hips, this is known as a pear shape
B - Shoulders and hips roughly the same, with a defined waist, Hourglass
C - Width of shoulders the same or wider than the width of your hips with little definition at your waist, apple
Something has occured to me here, and that is I have always thought that these classifications were based on bust measurements not on "Width of Shoulder", so here's a new twist. I am somewhere between the apple and hourglass. I was on the swim team in high school and during many years it rivaled only running and yoga for any sport that I could keep up over my life.... in spurts... not that my life is in spurts but my athletic activity has been.
Wikipedia - Female Body Types
The Wikepedia covers these body types as well as the impossible hip/waist ratio, which would be 28" for me, with a 40" hip (.7 x hip measurement = attractive proportions). Achievable with a corset or waist training.
The point is to look at your body in terms of shape. The Wikipedia even points out cup size and how that factors into how your shape is perceived. That same rule applies to your bottom. How many pregnant women have we seen that look tiny from the back, and then they turn around? (extreme example) You can have a 42" bust, but how does that breakdown? are you a 32F? or a 38C? Visually the 38C will appear broader across the chest and flatter than the 32F who is more front loaded. It's all about how the weight is carried on the frame.
So standing in front of a mirror instead of taking my circumference, hold the measuring tape with thumb and index finger, place it shoulder to shoulder, read the measurement in the mirror, then move down the body reading the tape. Imagine you are flat (IE not 3 dimensional). I have measured shoulder to shoulder 15", top arm to top arm 17", bust 12", waist 11", hip 14". I like these better than my circumference anyway:) This is just for reference, we really can't sew a pattern from them. I'm still an apple.
The point of all of this is to create a long silhouette (because we do not live in 17th Century Europe).
In terms of neckline, here's what is recommended.
Pear shapes - Balance your bottom to your top - try to choose features that widen the shoulders.
Fitted tailored shirts - (who doesn't look good in these?), features like princess seams, darts. You can do - lace, breast pockets, shirring, trims - all details that draw the eye upward.
Boat Neck, ballet neck, square neck - anything that will widen your shoulder line.
Chevron stripes (with "v" point finishing at waist, or downward pointing)
Necklines at mid chest* to throat - V-necks, ovals, sweetheart, crewnecks, mandarin collars, T-necks. skimming fit, hitting at hipbone.
Wrap tops - Accentuate waist.
Cap sleeves
*Mid chest - meaning between shoulder and high bust point.
Hourglass - avoid anything that hides your waist, or accentuates width on the top or bottom.
Simple softly fitted blouses - with no details that will make you look broader. Open necklines, and soft sleeve treatments.
Wrap top with a deep V crossover in matte jersey, fine gauge sweater knits, mid weight cotton knits.
Halters - plunging V
T-Shirts - tight baby tees with cap sleeves not your best look (I KNOW), Tank tops should not be sprayed on, avoid rib knits, and choose jersey knits.
Apple
Tailored shirt from tapered to a slightly fuller cut, finished shirt tail ending at hip to hip point.
V and U necks - from midchest to cleavage.
Unbottoned V neck cardigan sweater - layering with something feminine like a silk camisole.
Surplice top - knit tops with faux wrap, in silk knits, matte jerseys, side ruching
Blouson - wide neckline sliding off a shoulder, hitting hips.
Sleeveless - tops with wider straps that come close to the edge of your shoulders with U or V necks.
Bottom line, I'll be using a "U" neckline for this exercise, and I might even add another row of casing to finish at the hip. but the jury is still out on that.
I like that she starts out with, what we all should be considering when embarking on a new sewing project. Silhouette, proportion, fabric, and what she calls Optical Illusion vs delusion...
So I'll just jump right into body types
A - Width of shoulders and waist is smaller than the width of hips, this is known as a pear shape
B - Shoulders and hips roughly the same, with a defined waist, Hourglass
C - Width of shoulders the same or wider than the width of your hips with little definition at your waist, apple
Something has occured to me here, and that is I have always thought that these classifications were based on bust measurements not on "Width of Shoulder", so here's a new twist. I am somewhere between the apple and hourglass. I was on the swim team in high school and during many years it rivaled only running and yoga for any sport that I could keep up over my life.... in spurts... not that my life is in spurts but my athletic activity has been.
Wikipedia - Female Body Types
The Wikepedia covers these body types as well as the impossible hip/waist ratio, which would be 28" for me, with a 40" hip (.7 x hip measurement = attractive proportions). Achievable with a corset or waist training.
The point is to look at your body in terms of shape. The Wikipedia even points out cup size and how that factors into how your shape is perceived. That same rule applies to your bottom. How many pregnant women have we seen that look tiny from the back, and then they turn around? (extreme example) You can have a 42" bust, but how does that breakdown? are you a 32F? or a 38C? Visually the 38C will appear broader across the chest and flatter than the 32F who is more front loaded. It's all about how the weight is carried on the frame.
So standing in front of a mirror instead of taking my circumference, hold the measuring tape with thumb and index finger, place it shoulder to shoulder, read the measurement in the mirror, then move down the body reading the tape. Imagine you are flat (IE not 3 dimensional). I have measured shoulder to shoulder 15", top arm to top arm 17", bust 12", waist 11", hip 14". I like these better than my circumference anyway:) This is just for reference, we really can't sew a pattern from them. I'm still an apple.
The point of all of this is to create a long silhouette (because we do not live in 17th Century Europe).
In terms of neckline, here's what is recommended.
Pear shapes - Balance your bottom to your top - try to choose features that widen the shoulders.
Fitted tailored shirts - (who doesn't look good in these?), features like princess seams, darts. You can do - lace, breast pockets, shirring, trims - all details that draw the eye upward.
Boat Neck, ballet neck, square neck - anything that will widen your shoulder line.
Chevron stripes (with "v" point finishing at waist, or downward pointing)
Necklines at mid chest* to throat - V-necks, ovals, sweetheart, crewnecks, mandarin collars, T-necks. skimming fit, hitting at hipbone.
Wrap tops - Accentuate waist.
Cap sleeves
*Mid chest - meaning between shoulder and high bust point.
Hourglass - avoid anything that hides your waist, or accentuates width on the top or bottom.
Simple softly fitted blouses - with no details that will make you look broader. Open necklines, and soft sleeve treatments.
Wrap top with a deep V crossover in matte jersey, fine gauge sweater knits, mid weight cotton knits.
Halters - plunging V
T-Shirts - tight baby tees with cap sleeves not your best look (I KNOW), Tank tops should not be sprayed on, avoid rib knits, and choose jersey knits.
Apple
Tailored shirt from tapered to a slightly fuller cut, finished shirt tail ending at hip to hip point.
V and U necks - from midchest to cleavage.
Unbottoned V neck cardigan sweater - layering with something feminine like a silk camisole.
Surplice top - knit tops with faux wrap, in silk knits, matte jerseys, side ruching
Blouson - wide neckline sliding off a shoulder, hitting hips.
Sleeveless - tops with wider straps that come close to the edge of your shoulders with U or V necks.
Bottom line, I'll be using a "U" neckline for this exercise, and I might even add another row of casing to finish at the hip. but the jury is still out on that.
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Mad Women- Recreating Vintage Patterns
Last year during the month of August, the COPA Commercial Pattern Archive of Rhode Island University opened their archives for one week. This allowed visitors to peruse the vintage collection of patterns dated prior to 1960. Now, you don't get the full sized pattern, you get a small picture of the pattern envelope or an illustration, and the "schematics" of the pattern. They say on the website that you can enlarge them and drape the style. So with a little creativity, if you have a little pattern making and draping experience you can recreate the pattern. I printed off several of these patterns, and I've sorted them by level of complexity. This will be my first attempt at recreating one of the easier patterns.
I can already tell this is not to scale, can you imagine having a pocket that goes from waist to mid thigh? I received some pink cotton in one of my mystery bundles that I'll be using for the muslin.
I can already tell this is not to scale, can you imagine having a pocket that goes from waist to mid thigh? I received some pink cotton in one of my mystery bundles that I'll be using for the muslin.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Hermes scarves
For those of you who missed Martha Stewart yesterday, the lovely people from Hermes were presenting their wares. Their scarves tied in the most inventive and classic ways, so thoughtful of them, really, all you have to do is drop $800 for the two scarf tunic they tied (what????). I didn't hold out much hope for the shrug they tied, (it was falling off the model's shoulders), then I tried it at home, and low and behold it was cute (I guess it needed some broader shoulders).
Martha Stewart Hermes
Here's a pic of my scarf, (just remember to make sure the motif is right side up). You don't need an Hermes scarf to do this, how many of us have a 36" square of silk lying around the house (that is a finished measurement, with a rolled hem). This would be a good time to pull it out and finally use it. What a great idea to practice rolled hems, or a mitred border.
Colette patterns has a cheat of a hand rolled hem (click here). I'll have to try this out.
and Threads Magazine has a mitred hem tutorial (click here). (although this might be too thick for a delicate little knotted corner.)
To make this lovely shrug, just fold scarf in half and tie ends in dainty little knots. If you are smaller leave larger tails on the knots, or make your scarf smaller. It's not a bad option for traveling, when you just want to cover your shoulders with a little something.
Martha Stewart Hermes
Here's a pic of my scarf, (just remember to make sure the motif is right side up). You don't need an Hermes scarf to do this, how many of us have a 36" square of silk lying around the house (that is a finished measurement, with a rolled hem). This would be a good time to pull it out and finally use it. What a great idea to practice rolled hems, or a mitred border.
Colette patterns has a cheat of a hand rolled hem (click here). I'll have to try this out.
and Threads Magazine has a mitred hem tutorial (click here). (although this might be too thick for a delicate little knotted corner.)
To make this lovely shrug, just fold scarf in half and tie ends in dainty little knots. If you are smaller leave larger tails on the knots, or make your scarf smaller. It's not a bad option for traveling, when you just want to cover your shoulders with a little something.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Sorry that's no Sari!
Financial Times Sari Article
I don't know about you but what they portray as sari inspired is really more grecian in inspiration, and then they follow with a tunic, really it's a stretch.
So what is a Sari or Saree?
Wikipedia definition
Amanda Wakeley is quoted as saying that she was inspired by Sari's, so I ventured on over to her website, and found that I really liked the Bridal collection. I found some of the styles on the site a little more casual than a typical wedding dress. Here's one from the Rahjastan collection.
Amanda Wakeley
I don't know about you but what they portray as sari inspired is really more grecian in inspiration, and then they follow with a tunic, really it's a stretch.
So what is a Sari or Saree?
Wikipedia definition
Amanda Wakeley is quoted as saying that she was inspired by Sari's, so I ventured on over to her website, and found that I really liked the Bridal collection. I found some of the styles on the site a little more casual than a typical wedding dress. Here's one from the Rahjastan collection.
Amanda Wakeley
Monday, May 10, 2010
Brown's celebrates their 40th Anniversary
Brown's London Boutique celebrates their 40th anniversary, the Financial times have a brief interview with Joan Burnstein on Brown's beginnings and her relationship with designers.
Financial Times Article
Brown's online
Financial Times Article
Brown's online
Hi Mom, and articles about the fashion business
Happy belated Mother's day!It's not that I forgot, I knew it was Mother's day yesterday and just couldn't think of what to post. I spent the day thinking about my own mother who passed away 4 years ago. I still can't pass a pair of shoes without thinking if I should buy them for her, we were a pair of shoe fanatics. I hope everyone had a wonderful day.
Ever wonder why manufacturers aren't producing larger sized bras? Here's a partial answer from NY Magazine.
Why Don't More Designers Make Plus Size Bras
Wall Street Journal explains how the US is becoming less of a couture market.
Survival of the Finest
Ever wonder why manufacturers aren't producing larger sized bras? Here's a partial answer from NY Magazine.
Why Don't More Designers Make Plus Size Bras
Wall Street Journal explains how the US is becoming less of a couture market.
Survival of the Finest
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Where did maxi dresses start?
Was this the first pattern catalog ever? The start of the tunic / maxi dress we know today, I would wear all three... except the bare breasted one.
79a/b - the modern day jumper, they just left the underblouse out of it (but haven't we seen that on the runway as well?)
80a/b - the predecessor of the modern day tunic.(Tory Burch, Lily Pulitzer to name a few)
81a/b - Look a shift dress!! Narrow at the shoulders, and wider at the hem, Do you think J Crew was an Egyptian?
79a/b - the modern day jumper, they just left the underblouse out of it (but haven't we seen that on the runway as well?)
80a/b - the predecessor of the modern day tunic.(Tory Burch, Lily Pulitzer to name a few)
81a/b - Look a shift dress!! Narrow at the shoulders, and wider at the hem, Do you think J Crew was an Egyptian?
Friday, May 7, 2010
Egyptian pattern making
I knew I would get you with that catchy title. DVF did not invent the wrap:) This was part of the research done for a design based on ancient history. It's always fun to go to the library and search for etchings of ancient costumes. They can be quiet elaborate and inspiring.
We think we've invented every look
I've been having a wee bit of trouble with my computer, and microsoft. I had a fashion file and have not been able to retrieve about half of my scanned files because Vista doesn't see more than one image in a Tif file. Argh. But from what I have been able to see, it's striking to me that if some of these styles were tweaked just a little, they could be current.
Ok now don't laugh, this is what I'm comparing it to this outfit from Vanessa Bruno, this one doesn't have the hat or the belt, instead a more casual drawstring.
Ok now don't laugh, this is what I'm comparing it to this outfit from Vanessa Bruno, this one doesn't have the hat or the belt, instead a more casual drawstring.
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